JOGLPJohn o' Groats → Lizard PointPlan your walk

Sleeping out

We slept in the tent almost every night, from John o’ Groats to Lizard Point. Here’s what’s allowed, how we behaved and what you need so a night in the tent doesn’t turn into a miserable one.

What's allowed

Scotland wild camping allowed

The Scottish Outdoor Access Code allows small tents for a few nights, well away from buildings and roads. There are exceptions, such as the permit zones around Loch Lomond.

England & Wales landowner's permission needed

In England and Wales you officially need the landowner’s permission to pitch a tent. It’s often tolerated anyway if you behave: people there love walking, many have done long routes themselves, and we nearly always met helpfulness. These are the ground rules we stuck to.

Our ground rules

  1. Pitch late, when it gets dark.
  2. Pack up early, before it is fully light.
  3. Stay out of sight – if nobody sees you, nobody minds.
  4. Respect fences and walls.
  5. Don't disturb animals – never camp in fields with livestock.
  6. Leave no litter, pack everything out. For human waste dig a deep hole well inside the woods; bury toilet paper deep or take it with you.
  7. No fires – gas stove only.
  8. Don't damage anything – no cutting trees, no flattening plants.
  9. Leave no trace.
  10. If someone asks you to leave, leave. Usually you can talk to people – show that you take their concerns seriously and you are more likely to get help. We never had a bad experience.
  11. In short, don't be a dick. It's just common sense, really.

Wind, weather, picking a spot

On open ridges like Hergest Ridge or the Black Mountains there are hardly any sheltered, level spots; you take what you get. Two or three nights were properly stormy for us, one of them on a shingle beach at Loch Lomond where the pegs barely held. What helps: weigh the pegs down with stones, sleep behind a hedge or in the woods rather than with a view, and a tent that can handle wind.

Midges and ticks

Midges start at Inverness and are worst on still days, mornings and evenings; the head net weighs 24 g. Ticks were mostly a southern thing for us. Treat your clothes with permethrin beforehand and check yourself in the evening, more in the FAQ.

Rather have a roof or permission?

  • Campsites are found along almost the whole route, usually with showers. The budget calculator assumes around £14 per night for a tent.
  • Youth hostels and hostels: YHA in England and Wales, Hostelling Scotland in Scotland, plus independent hostels and bunkhouses. Better book ahead in summer.
  • Bothies: simple open huts with no electricity, free and unbookable, looked after by the Mountain Bothies Association. Most are in Scotland, a few in northern England and Wales.
  • Ask: If you want to pitch in a field in England or Wales, ask the farmer. That’s the legal way to wild camp. To be honest we never did, but we hear it usually works out.
  • What suits you depends on how often you want a shower, how much adventure you’re after and what your budget looks like. And whatever you choose: have a plan B. Whether a bothy is open or the campsite still has room, you only find out when you’re standing in front of it.

Section by section

Every trail page lists campsites, hostels and bothies along the way under “On the way”, plus how easy it is to find a spot.